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Start Location - Chiang Mai
End Location - Pai Distance Riding - 172 kilometers | 107 miles Hours Riding - 4 hours Longest Continuous Ride - 1 hour 15 minutes Meals Included - Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Main Activity - Elephant Sanctuary Max Elevation - 1,381 meters | 4,530 feet |
Elevation Rise - 1,071 meters | 3,513 feet
Total Elevation Gain - 3,141 meters | 10,305 feet End Point Elevation - 467 meters | 1,535 feet |
Breakfast
Today will be our first day riding our motorcycles in Thailand! And not just that, we will be doing one of the most famous and twistiest sections of the Mae Hong Son Loop. So we'll start our day with a nice big breakfast at the hotel, and then get ready to hop on our motorcycles!
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Riding to the Elephants
This morning, we'll leave the city of Chiang Mai and head into the mountains.
One of the first things you'll notice about riding a motorcycle in Thailand is that they drive on the left side of the road. But even if that's new for you, it should come pretty easily, especially because you'll also notice that the roads in Thailand are heavenly. They're smoothly paved, there are very few potholes, and as a group of motorcyclists, traffic is particularly courteous to us. You won't have to worry about anything except following the bike in front of you and enjoying those curves. |
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Elephant Experience
Ahh, to be kissed by a happy elephant... This may be one of the most gorgeously memorable moments of my life.
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But wait, let's back up a moment and mention the elephant in the room. Because Thai elephant experiences are a controversial topic, and for good reason.
Some places care more about money than the welfare of their animals. And we have passed some where the conditions are... it's so sad, I'll spare you the details. But don't worry! As a HUGE animal lover, I would only ever take you to the best of the best! |
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Where we're going is an absolute gem - it's small, local & family-run, has a "no riding" policy, the elephants are free-roaming over a huge area (with a river for them to bathe in whenever they want), and it's very obvious how happy they are.
I give you my word - you can feel good about this one, though if you want to sit it out, you can have coffee at their restaurant while viewing the elephants from above.
I give you my word - you can feel good about this one, though if you want to sit it out, you can have coffee at their restaurant while viewing the elephants from above.
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Elephants play a pivotal role in Thai culture and society. The white elephant is a national symbol, and humans and elephants have a shared history in Asia going back several thousand years. Elephants feature prominently in spiritual and religious symbolism, and as beasts of burden they have cleared fields, transformed the landscape, and carried royals and generals into battle. They have even shaped the economy.
Asian elephants are technically not "domesticated" because they've never been specifically bred. But they can form very strong bonds with people and are highly intelligent creatures. They have exceptional memories and their brains possess more neurons than human brains! 
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First thing we'll do when we get to the elephant sanctuary is change into these super awesome blue outfits (because we'll get slobbery and messy). Then we'll partake in preparing the elephant food.
When we were there, the elephants were eating pumpkins! It's amazing how much food they consume on a daily basis.
When we were there, the elephants were eating pumpkins! It's amazing how much food they consume on a daily basis.
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As you feed them, the elephants will gently take the food from you with their trunks, which are just sooo cool. An elephant's trunk is one of the most extraordinary biological tools on earth! With over 40,000 individual muscles (the human body has around 600), they can use their trunks as a hand, nose, arm, snorkel, trumpet, and sensory instrument.
One of the things I appreciate most about this place is seeing how the elephants just LOVE their caretakers. There are certain Thai phrases and commands used to convey all sorts of things to them (you'll learn some). It's almost like the people here and the elephants can speak to each other. 
After feeding them from the platform, if you're feeling particularly brave, you can go down to walk beside them (and possibly get the selfie of a lifetime).
And if you're super lucky, you might even get a gross, slobbery kiss from an elephant! |
Lunch
We'll have a buffet lunch at the elephant sanctuary itself. It will consist of Thai fried rice with chicken, Pad Thai noodles, spaghetti, salad, and fruit. It will not be spicy, but you can always add spice on top of it.
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And best of all, from where we'll eat there's a view of the elephants and the gorgeous valley below.
If you are vegetarian, vegan, or have any particular dietary restrictions, we can work with that. See our FAQ for more information.
If you are vegetarian, vegan, or have any particular dietary restrictions, we can work with that. See our FAQ for more information.
Ride to Rak Chang Viewpoint
Back on the bikes and with stomachs full, we're ready for more twisties! And this next section of road is EPIC!
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And then once we get to the viewpoint at Rak Chang... oh my GOODNESS!
You'll be pinching yourself saying, "I can't believe I did it! I can't believe I'm actually here!"
Arriving in Pai
Our destination tonight is the famous bohemian city of Pai. You will immediately sense that this place is unique as it has attracted people from all over the world as a sanctuary of grassroots art and counter-culture inspiration.
Your Accommodations
Tonight we'll be staying at a hotel in Pai that's beautiful, relaxing, and away from all the hustle and bustle, but still close enough to walk there (which we will be doing tonight).
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So take off those boots, have a nice warm shower, and get ready. Because after we have our afternoon rest, we'll head out this evening to experience all the fun that this little city offers.
Dinner in Pai
Dinner will be down the block at a local restaurant that serves great Thai food. If you think you've had delicious Thai cuisine before in your home country, just wait until you try it here! I usually go for a wonderful Pad Thai noodle dish, while Tim's favorite is the Pad Ka Phao Gai, or Sweet Thai Basil Chicken. He loves it with a fried egg on top.
If you don't like spicy food, or you're vegetarian or vegan, then I'd recommend the Pad Thai noodles. It can be made without the chicken and egg and with only tofu. And amazingly enough, it never has any spice to it, unusual for a traditional Thai dish.
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And if you like beer, don't forget to try the local Thai brews. Singha and Chang are always favorites.
Pai's Walking Street
After our meal, we'll head over to the walking street where you can see what Pai is all about.
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The atmosphere, the people, the crafts... it's all an experience to be had. And I hope you saved some room in your stomach for delicious street fare. You'll find homeopathic teas, fresh fruit juice, and home baked goods.
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Start Location - Pai
End Location - Mae Hong Son Distance Riding - 137 kilometers | 85 miles Hours Riding - 3.5 hours Longest Continuous Ride - 1 hour Meals Included - Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Main Activity - Nam Lod Cave Max Elevation - 1,403 meters | 4,603 feet |
Elevation Rise - 935 meters | 3,068 feet
Total Elevation Gain - 3,401 meters | 11,158 feet End Point Elevation - 230 meters | 755 feet |
Breakfast
We'll have a buffet breakfast at the hotel this morning. Make sure you're all fueled up (both your bike and your body), so that you're ready for what's going to be one of the greatest roads of your life.
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Ride to Dom Kiew Lom Viewpoint
From Pai, we're heading north, and are really in the thick of the mountains now. It's all twists and turns and serpentine curves today, all the way to our destination for the evening. This is going to be quite the ride, and we've got some great sights to see along the way as well!
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And then... there are the views. (Tim's not too bad to look at either 😉)
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At all of these viewpoints there is coffee and snacks for sale, as well as restrooms.
Nam Lod Cave
I've been to lots of caves in my life, but this one is really special because of its bamboo raft journey that reminds me of crossing the River Styx to Hades (not that I've ever done that)... Anyway, more on that in a moment.
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We will start our cave adventure by following a local guide down a boardwalk path. Through the jungle, it'll bring us to the cave entrance where lots of fish wait for food. Since there's no electricity inside the cave, all the guides carry old-fashioned kerosene mantle lamps. I simply love that they do this because not only does it preserve the dark ambiance of the cave for us to enjoy in a very mysterious, almost mystical way, but it allows the animals that live there to remain in the dark, keeping it as natural as possible. It also makes it feel like we've gone back a hundred years.
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As we get toured around, don't forget to take a picture of the world-famous cave boob.
Bamboo Rafting through the Cave
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Eventually we'll come to the river that's inside of the cave where a bamboo raft boatman will be waiting to take us upstream.
You actually get poled down the river, a bit like a gondola in Venice. This is my absolute favorite part because it's so eerily quiet and bizarre to float through the cave. And the strangest thing happens - fish actually follow alongside the boat. In the dim light, you can see them, huge fish, swimming next to you. Of course, they're waiting to be fed, and fish food is available to buy at the entrance.
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The raft will take us through the cave and to a back exit where the river continues into the jungle. From there it's a dead end, so we'll turn around and head back the way we came.
Once our cave exploration is over, we'll walk back through the forest to where we parked the bikes. Along the way there is a very picturesque cable bridge spanning the river.
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Lunch
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Back into the light, we're ready to eat! We'll either go to one of the eateries right at the caves themselves (by the parking lot) or we'll head down the road to a nice restaurant just a few blocks away.
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Ride to Ban Ja Bo Vista
Back on the bikes once again, we'll head off the main track and onto a steep, narrow, incredibly tight-turned road. This will probably be the most challenging part of our entire ride, but the difficult section is short. And the coffee place we're going to at the end of it will be well worth the trouble.
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This is where we're headed - Dekdoi Coffee (thank you Dekdoi for the next two pictures).
Dekdoi Coffee is located in what is basically a tiny village of one road that's perched on the edge of some fantasy-level scenery. This is Avatar floating mountains-type drama. And there's nothing better than dangling your feet over the edge and sipping a nice drink while looking out at the incredible landscape.
With a view like this, you never thought coffee could taste so good.
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When Tim and I first came here, we weren't sure if making a detour from the main road would be worth it. But once we arrived at the village and beheld the view... we knew this simply had to be on the tour.
Oh and I forgot to mention - it's not just amazing coffee that they have here, but they sell home-made baked goods as well!
Oh and I forgot to mention - it's not just amazing coffee that they have here, but they sell home-made baked goods as well!
Ride Along the Dragon's Spine
Well, this is what you came for, and so... you shall receive!
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After nearly eight years of traveling the world by motorcycle, we heard a lot of stories about the Mae Hong Son Loop in northern Thailand and how jaw-droppingly incredible it was. But it's not until we experienced it for ourselves that we knew just how right these stories were.
The Real Bamboo Bridge
Bamboo bridges like the one seen below were first constructed for monks to easily pass through the wet and muddy rice paddy fields to get to and from the temples every day. There is one very famous bamboo bridge in this region that every tour bus and motorcycle group stops at for pictures, and it is super touristy. Buses running, souvenir shops galore... it's ridiculous. But we have discovered a bridge that NO ONE knows about!
This is a real, authentic bamboo bridge that monks and villagers use for their daily commutes. It leads to a gorgeous little temple, and because you'll be there in the early winter, you might be able to catch the final stages of the rice harvest.
And best of all, there will be no one else there! Parking is a bit tricky, but the local farmer always lets us use his land (we compensate him) and there you go! Our own exclusive bamboo bridge and beautiful mountain temple!
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Arriving in Mae Hong Son
Our destination tonight is the little town of Mae Hong Son for which the entire loop is named. It's a bit of a bucket list item for many motorcyclists because of how famous this road is for all its curves. There's even a district office where you can put up a sticker and get a picture in front of its iconic sign.
Your Accommodations
The town of Mae Hong Son is my favorite stop along the Mae Hong Son Loop. It's laid back, has beautiful mountains all around, and it feels very quaint. You'll see what I mean when we get there because we've chosen a hotel that couldn't be in a more perfect location for us to show you what we're talking about.
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The hotel is small, family run, and it's definitely not a luxury resort. The rooms are fairly basic, but it has all the things you'd need - hot water (the shower is electric but we'll instruct you on how to use it), a mini fridge, air-conditioning, and a comfy bed to lay your head on after an incredible day of sights and rides.
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But step outside through the back gate of the hotel and you'll be immediately confronted with a breathtaking view - the central pond of Mae Hong Son backdropped by the green slopes of the mountains. And across the pond are the stunning golden spires of the town's main temple, Wat Chong Kham.
This pond is also where tonight's festivities will take place. Just wait until dark...
Dinner at the Night Market
Once the sun sets and the night market around the temple gets underway, what had previously been just a pretty view across the pond turns into something truly magical.
This evening for dinner, we'll take the leisurely stroll over to the other side of the pond where our favorite little restaurant is located. Good Thai food, good drinks, and sometimes there's even live music.
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Although lots of tourists do find their way here, just like us, this night market doesn't feel too touristy. That's because lots of locals frequent it as well. And since we're in the heart of the hill tribe mountains now, you might even see a Kayan woman wearing brass coils around her neck. We'll definitely be seeing them tomorrow, but keep your eyes peeled for a sneak peek.
After dinner, we can explore the night market and wat. And just like all Thai temples, you're free to walk through and enjoy its beauty and serenity. 
At the temple, you can make a special prayer or wish by lighting a candle and putting it alongside a flower in a little wooden boat. Then you take the boat and let it float away in a fountain. But you must be sure the candle is the one for the day of the week in which you were born (I had to look mine up).
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Start Location - Mae Hong Son
End Location - Mae Chaem Distance Riding - 193 kilometers | 120 miles Hours Riding - 4 hours Longest Continuous Ride - 1 hour 30 minutes Meals Included - Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Main Activity - Long Neck Village Max Elevation - 1,494 meters | 4,901 feet |
Elevation Rise - 1,264 meters | 4,146 feet
Total Elevation Gain - 4,598 meters | 15,085 feet End Point Elevation - 434 meters | 1,424 feet |
Sunrise on the Mountain
Photo Credit: Expique.com
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Right before dawn today, we have an optional excursion to the ridge of the nearby mountain where there is a temple from which we can watch the sun rise, illuminating the entire Mae Hong Son valley. There's no need to gear up, because we'll just take the support vehicle for the five minutes up the mountain.
Bring your jacket because it can get slightly chilly up here, as well as your camera. You'll not want to miss the views of the mist hovering over the town of Mae Hong Son as the mountains embrace the scene. |
When Tim and I went, we were unable to go at sunrise, so our pictures were taken during the day (also pretty though). But I can't wait to experience it at dawn with you. We'll have that fabulous view of the Mae Hong Son valley below, as well as the calming atmosphere from the temple. And best of all, the sun rises directly ahead of us, right from over the mountains. It'll be perfect for taking pictures and watching the world wake.
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If we're very lucky, the monks will be chanting as they recite the Buddhist scriptures. What a gorgeous way to start out our day that will be filled with scenic roads and epic adventures in Thailand!
Breakfast
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Breakfast at the hotel is extremely simple. They have coffee, bananas, and toast with jam, but I think we'll need something a bit heartier. So we're also going to take you five minutes away to our favorite little breakfast place in town called Coffee Bar.
Not only is the breakfast good, but the view from there is pretty nice too. This is, of course, the same pond where the night market was from the previous evening, and now you get to enjoy it in a whole different light (literally).
Make sure you eat your fill because today's journey is going to take us to a long neck village of indigenous Kayan people, as well as to a very special road that is off the Mae Hong Son Loop. And it is incredible! I can't wait to show you what I mean... |
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Heading to the Hill Tribes
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Once on our bikes, we're veering off the main track for a detour to a village of Karen people. The Karen are the indigenous tribes of Thailand's northern mountains. Famous for their environmental stewardship and community-driven forest conservation, these people live simple, beautiful, sustainable lives that is amazing to witness.
Today, we're going to visit a village of a subgroup of Karens called the Kayan people. Colloquially known as "long-neck women," the Kayan women are world-famous for wearing brass coils on their shoulders which elegantly extend their necks. First, we'll take another gorgeously twisty road, then turn off it onto a smaller track that will take us along a river and to the village. It's really a fun ride. |
Once there, we'll have to park the bikes and take a little wooden boat across the river to the village. You'll notice it's made up of mostly wooden and bamboo stilted houses in the traditional style.
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The Women with the Brass Coils
The Kayan women wear brass coils to elongate the look of their neck for several reasons - aesthetic beauty, tribal identity, cultural preservation, and as the legends tell, these coils are said to protect against evil spirits (and maybe even tigers).
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Contrary to popular belief, the Kayan women's necks don't actually stretch. Instead, the coils over time push the shoulders down and compress the ribs to give the illusion that they have ultra long necks.
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This process starts early, at about 5-7 years old, and the coils gradually get larger and more numerous as the girl grows. If you get the chance to put some on, I'd highly recommend it so you can feel just how heavy they are. They can weigh on average 10-20 kgs, that's 22-44 lbs!
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Let me tell you, it was heavy, and I was only wearing half!
And despite what you might have heard in urban legends, the Kayan women can actually remove their coils (without their heads rolling off😜). They just often prefer to keep them on because their neck muscles become weak over time. So when the coils are removed, they might feel dizzy and uncomfortable.
You'll also notice them wearing coils on their legs, arms, ears as earrings... they believe the body is a canvas for art. |
It's true that this Kayan village has embraced tourism, but we prefer it this way. It means that we are not barging in on their homes unwelcome, and we can feel good about taking pictures without it being unwanted.
In fact, not only is the experience of visiting the village a great one, but it's heartwarming for me to know that my small ticket price and souvenir purchases have helped financially support these people. Historically, many of the Kayan tribes fled violence in Myanmar and came to Thailand as refugees. But limited legal status meant limited employment opportunities. Now, opening up to tourism has allowed them to thrive while holding true to their traditions and uniquely beautiful culture.
In fact, not only is the experience of visiting the village a great one, but it's heartwarming for me to know that my small ticket price and souvenir purchases have helped financially support these people. Historically, many of the Kayan tribes fled violence in Myanmar and came to Thailand as refugees. But limited legal status meant limited employment opportunities. Now, opening up to tourism has allowed them to thrive while holding true to their traditions and uniquely beautiful culture.
Ride to Khun Yuam
This next ride is another twisty one! Get ready to lean into some fun curves!
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And whenever there's a break in the trees, you'll be greeted with views like this:
The hardest part is going to be keeping your eyes on the road!
Lunch
Once we get to the town of Khun Yuam, we'll have a nice and relaxing lunch at Dad's Garden. Tim and I simply love this place because the food is great and the views of the surrounding rice paddies are equally scrumptious!
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This is a beef version of Pad Ka Phao (Thai Sweet Basil). I highly recommend it!
Behind the restaurant, Tim discovered a lovely temple tucked between the peaceful rice fields. I just think the ogre-looking guy with tusks is so impressive!
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Our Favorite Ride of Thailand
Ok, I know we've already been on tons of great roads. In fact, you're probably thinking, "How can you possibly top that?" It is truly a tough call between such great contenders! But with that in mind, the following road that we take this afternoon is our personal favorite.
Why do we love it so much? Well first, let me give you some background on it.
This road is not part of the Mae Hong Son Loop. Most motorcyclists do the loop as they've been told to, and we've done that. And it's nice.... but this road is way better. And I mean, WAY better! This is the way to go, and I'll tell you (and show you) why.
This road is not part of the Mae Hong Son Loop. Most motorcyclists do the loop as they've been told to, and we've done that. And it's nice.... but this road is way better. And I mean, WAY better! This is the way to go, and I'll tell you (and show you) why.
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Simply put, the road is slightly narrower, but still perfectly paved as it gently twists through the unfolding landscape. For the first part you will climb up and up in altitude (you may even want to put on a warm jacket). Along the way, you'll pass authentic little Thai villages and farms that grow rice, cabbage, and corn in terraced hillside fields.
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Coming down off the mountain, we'll ride a ridge with stunning views on either side.
And the best part is, since there are so many farms with fields here, you can actually see what you're riding through, as opposed to seeing only jungle and trees. On this road, you get a real sense of the undulating waves of the landscape that makes up the heart of northern Thailand.
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Oh and one more perfect little addition - at this time of year you'll be there for the blooming of beautiful wild sunflowers that line the roads like they're paving your way in gold. Local tourists from across Thailand come to this area specifically to witness this natural wonder every year.
This road is by no means a secret, but because it's off the main tourist thoroughfare, only those who are in the know will ever get the chance to experience it. |
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Coffee Stops Along the Way
Unlike the main route of the Mae Hong Son Loop, this road is a little off the beaten path, which means it doesn't have much infrastructure. But even though it is mostly rural, we found some great stops to break up the ride and rest our butts (and get refueled with coffee).
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Our first stop will be up at the top of the mountain, at nearly 5,000 feet / 1,500 meters! You can definitely feel the chill in the wind and the crisp air up here.
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Next, we'll stop at a place appropriately called Hot Coffee. They locally source their coffee beans, as well as run the Rain Tree Fountain - a charity that helps educate and house needy children from the nearby community.
Your Accommodations
Finally, after that stunning ride of dreams, we'll arrive at our destination for the night: the little town of Mae Chaem.
Located in the foothills of Thailand's tallest mountain, Doi Inthanon, staying in Mae Chaem overnight is a glimpse into the country's more rural side. Quaint, farming-oriented, and full of welcoming smiles (as well as sprinkled in thousands of stars at night), we think you're going to enjoy your stay here.
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Your accommodations may not be luxurious (don't worry, we'll be at our super bougie beachside island resort soon enough), but you get a front row view of Thailand's tallest mountain. Plus, the hotel features lots of nice common areas and garden benches to relax, have a beer, and reminisce about the crazy awesome ride here.
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As the run sets over the valley, gilding the harvested rice paddies in gold, we can soak in the views of the great mountain not too far away. knowing that tomorrow we'll be scaling it to the very top!
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Dinner
Tonight, we have a couple options for dinner. If we're feeling up for it, we can journey into town to a restaurant. But if we're loving relaxing in our new surroundings at the edge of the village, we can order in! Sometimes takeout is just what you're in the mood for (we know 😉).
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Since this will be one our last nights in northern Thailand, I recommend trying a northern specialty called Khao Soi. You have to be able to handle a bit of spice for this since it is a red curry, but I find it's not too spicy. It's richly fragrant and packed with true Thai flavors.
The broth is poured over rice noodles, vegetables and herbs, as well as a piece of meat, such as a chicken leg. Then it's garnished with crispy fried noodles (a bit like lo mein), onions, lime, and cilantro. You don't often find this dish in Thai restaurants abroad, so if you want to experience it, you'll have to try it here! |
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Night in the Mountains
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As night descends over the valley, and the sun has nestled itself behind Mount Doi Inthanon, the stars will come out, and the frogs will start their lovely chorus of chirps.
This is the perfect moment to kick back with our new found friends, listen to the distant village dogs barking, and laugh as we reminisce and watch the moon rise. And when we go to sleep tonight, we'll be dreaming of what's yet to come. We're almost halfway done with the tour, and there's still so many incredible things awaiting us... |
