Life of Pai

- Tim Notier

​Some people take a relaxing vacation to unwind. We, on the other hand, wanted as many windy roads as possible. Marisa and I, along with our friends Dan, who we first met in Tempur on Java, Indonesia, along with Chris and Tim who have been circumnavigating the world themselves (@DellevartAdventures) decided to hop on motorcycles to tackle one of the most legendary stretches of pavement in Thailand.
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​The ride from Chiang Mai to Pai is famous for its 762 curves while the entire loop we would be riding over the next 4 days boasts a whopping 4,088 twists and turns. I did not count the day's turn of events, but after the first hour, my instincts confirmed that number was probably accurate. Each hairpin offered a mix of thrill, challenge, and pure joy as our group carved through jungle lined roads that seemed to be designed specifically for motorcycle travelers with an appetite for adventure.
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Riding with friends through such a beautiful corner of the world is hard to describe without sounding like a tourism brochure. The four of us rode through cool mountain breezes while we all wore the type of grins that only come from knowing you are exactly where you are supposed to be. Every break in the trees revealed rolling green valleys and distant ridgelines that made us feel like we were riding straight into an oil painting. Thailand really knows how to make a person fall in love with motorcycling all over again.
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I was filled with a sense of wonder and the feeling that the world was bigger and more magical than I expected. With good friends, great views, and unlimited twisty roads, I didn’t think it could get any better, but the day’s journey had a lot of surprises in store for us.
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The Elephant in the Room
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​Halfway through the twisties we pulled into Baifern Valley Chiang Mai, one of the elephant sanctuaries that focuses on ethical care. No chains, no harsh handling, and no circus style entertainment. Just happy elephants wandering, snacking nonstop like oversized toddlers as we fed them pumpkins. Marisa and I have always had hesitations to visit elephant sanctuaries. Some locations are purely tourist attractions where the handlers are more focused on profit than the wellbeing of the animals. But this place was not like that, and we learned a ton in our short time with these majestic beasts.
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Not all elephant sanctuaries are created equal. Some places are sanctuaries in name only, hiding abusive practices behind the scenes and training elephants to perform or carry tourists. A truly ethical sanctuary puts the well-being of the elephants first, provides a natural environment, and never offers elephant riding. That is exactly why visiting Baifern Valley Chiang Mai was such a breath of fresh air. The elephants there live peaceful lives, roaming spacious grounds, snacking on mountains of fruit, and interacting with visitors only on their own terms. There were no bullhooks, no circus routines, no pressure to get the perfect selfie. Just elephants being elephants, which is honestly the greatest show on earth.
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We watched them interact with their caretakers in a way that showed real trust. It was one of those experiences where you realize how incredible these animals are and how lucky we are to share a moment with them without feeling guilty about it.
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Real sanctuaries focus on education, conservation, and giving these incredible animals a safe life, not catering to whatever tourists want in the moment. Avoid any park that treats elephants like entertainment, because cruelty is almost always hidden behind the scenes.
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Long Noses to Long Necks
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​Farther north we visited Huay Pu Keng, a Kayan village known for its long neck women who wear traditional brass coils on their shoulders (as well as wrists and ankles). More twisty roads led us into a valley that followed a river. Once we arrived, we parked the bikes, and crossed the river in a small canoe. 
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The Kayan women are warm and welcoming, and their craftsmanship is incredible. The coils are not simply ornaments. They are deeply rooted in cultural identity and family tradition. Seeing their weaving, jewelry making, and daily life up close gave us a much deeper appreciation for their heritage. This is not a theme park style attraction. It is a real community holding onto its traditions while also engaging with travelers who want to learn respectfully.

We spent time talking with local families, buying handmade goods that support the community, and learning about how tourism helps them maintain their cultural practices.

It reminded me of how lucky we are to see these traditions play out in real life. And just like the elephant sanctuary, there are certain villages that are targeted for busloads of tourists, and we were thankful that the small twisty road to this particular village weeded out the large buses. Of course, we want every village to thrive and sell their goods, but it was a much more authentic experience with only us and a few other motorcyclists who were able to manage the narrow road to Huay Pu Keng.

We spent an hour laughing and interacting with women who we didn’t share a language with, but could share smiles, mutual respect, and kindness.
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The Road Ahead

​By the time we rolled into Mae Hong Son with dusty boots and windblown hair, we were fully convinced that this route is something worth sharing. The Mae Hong Son loop has everything you could want in a motorcycle adventure. There are mountain roads that twist like a bowl of spaghetti, villages filled with culture and history, elephant sanctuaries that actually protect their animals, and scenery that will burn the beauty of the world into your memory like a brand.
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​That is exactly why Marisa and I are putting together a tour for 2026. We want others to feel the same rush of excitement as they lean into those curves, breathe in the mountain air, meet incredible people, and experience the magic of northern Thailand. It is impossible to ride through this region without feeling changed in the best possible way.
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​We cannot wait to share more of our tour details soon, and even more importantly, to ride this incredible route again with new friends who are ready for an unforgettable adventure. Thailand has welcomed us with open arms, endless smiles, and a thousand twists and turns. And this was just the first 2,224 curves of 4,088! We are only halfway done with this loop and we can’t wait to share what the rest of the tour has to offer!

Stay tuned, stay in touch, and we are so grateful to have you along for the ride either behind the screen, or behind the handlebars in person!

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