Smoke and Mirrors

- Tim Notier

Put your helmets on as we ride on the back of a rickety Bajaj Pulsar 220 to Bali’s legendary Lempuyang Temple.

​The Great Lempuyang Temple Showdown

Our destination? The jaw-dropping, mirror-illusion-fuelled wonder known as Lempuyang Temple, aka The Gates of Heaven. It’s famous enough for postcards and Instagram selfies, but is it a sacred place—or a tourist trap in disguise?

​If you’ve ever scrolled through Instagram and seen that jaw-dropping shot of two stone gates perfectly framing a volcano, you’ve already “been” to Lempuyang Temple—digitally, anyway. But as we recently found out on our Bajaj Pulsar 220, there’s a huge difference between the photo and the reality.
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Winding Roads and Bajaj Bravery

The day started the way many of our adventures do, me piloting our trusty Bajaj Pulsar 220 while maneuvering us around Bali’s unpredictable traffic. Dogs, chickens, scooters stacked with entire families, it’s all part of the obstacle course.

There’s something poetic about riding Bali’s winding roads on our trusty Bajaj Pulsar 220- small, spirited, and mighty. If this bike were any more overloaded, its little heart might’ve exploded from all the uphill temple climbs and jungle turns.

The Bajaj may not be the flashiest machine on the island, but it’s our mechanical sidekick. A 220cc single-cylinder beast that’s equally good at weaving through chaos and complaining loudly about steep inclines. As we ascended toward Lempuyang, its little engine let out the same kind of grumbles as I do when climbing up four flights of stairs with our luggage in hand at a hotel with no elevator. Both the motorcycle and I are always pushed forward with the loving motivation and support from Marisa.

First Glimpse of the Gates of Heaven

By the time we rolled into the parking lot, the Bajaj was panting, and so were we. Lempuyang Temple is one of Bali’s oldest and most sacred temples, dating back to the 8th century. It’s part of a series of temples along the slopes of Mount Lempuyang, each one requiring a little more effort to reach. The famous “Gates of Heaven” are located at the lower temple, Pura Lempuyang Luhur.

After a bus ride and a short, but exhausting hike, we could see the iconic gates, and they looked every bit as stunning as the photos... with one missing component - there was no reflection pond in front of the stunning gates.

The Queue, the Mirror, and the Magic Trick

We joined the line of eager visitors, cameras in hand. A friendly crew runs a ticket-style photography system. You wait your turn (we waited an hour and a half, and it was a slow day), and when your number is finally called, you hand over your phone and the photographer uses a little square of black glass to create that perfect “reflection” shot. The clouds drift over Mount Agung, the light shifts, and voilà, your personal slice of Bali magic.
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“Next pose! Hands up! Kiss! Jump!” the photographer directed as if shooting for the cover of Vogue. We got around 25 poses before we were shuffled away to make room for the next couple. The result? Gorgeous photos, but not exactly the serene spiritual experience we’d imagined.

Tourist Trap or Cultural Treasure?

This is the million-rupiah question. Is Lempuyang Temple a sacred treasure or just an Instagram trap? The answer is… both.
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On one hand, it’s a place of deep cultural and spiritual significance for the Balinese people. Pilgrims come here to pray, to make offerings, and to complete the demanding climb to the temple, a journey believed to cleanse the spirit.

On the other hand, the temple has undeniably been reshaped by tourism. The queue, the paid photo service, the “next pose” instructions, it’s all designed for the modern social media visitor. If you come expecting peace and quiet, you might leave disappointed.
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Riding Home with Mixed Feelings

By the time we descended back to the parking lot, the clouds had thickened, giving Mount Agung a moody, half-hidden look. We swung a leg over the Bajaj, who seemed relieved we were headed downhill this time, and began the ride home.

Our verdict? The “Gates of Heaven” are worth seeing. Just know that the most meaningful memories took place far from the photo spot.

Final Thoughts

Lempuyang Temple is a place of contrasts. It’s a sacred site wrapped in a tourist spectacle. It’s a spot where you can both marvel at nature’s beauty and grumble about the commercialization of it.

For us, it was all of those things. And riding there on our Bajaj Pulsar 220 made it all the more memorable. Because no matter what’s at the end of the road, half the joy is in the ride itself.

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If you want the full experience, awkward poses, and Bajaj grumbles, the full episode is up on our YouTube channel: 2up and Overloaded - DECEIVED! – Bali’s Most Iconic Temple… or a Tourist Trap?

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​Borneo Motorcycle Adventure!

You are invited to join us on a 10 DAY MOTORCYCLE EXPERIENCE in East Malaysia, guided by yours truly - Tim and Marisa Notier. On this experience, you will ride through some of the oldest rainforests on earth, encounter orangutans and other stunning wildlife, twist into the foothills of Borneo's tallest mountain, plunge under waterfalls, and explore untouched coral reefs. All while making great friends and lifelong memories.

We want to show you some of the best roads and most breathtaking sights we've ever encountered after our 7 years on the road. And Borneo is a treasure trove!

This tour is particularly exciting since Borneo is still quite untouched and unknown. Although riding a motorcycle is a dream come true here, it's normally very hard to do so logistically, meaning that most adventure riders miss out on this incredible destination. But we have found a way!

So come along with us, and let us show you the ride of your life!